And also dont forget to reconnect both of the small electrical plugs to the valves otherwise the car will show an engine management fault. I mean with no chipping? A friend says that the N112 should stay connected to the vacuum store for safety reasons. They are shown in this picture below. I got turned around after I removed it and don't know which hose goes to which specific port. The guys at Star didn't like it too much and suggested it could be a problem.
Also try and get a cable tie round this joint. By both i mean the main engine cover and the small one that going around the dip stick. You might not have the N112 valve as they weren't on the newer engines. You can also remove the reservoir mounting bracket which is held on to the rocker head cover by three 5mm allen key bolts. You need to again completely remove this tube and take the reservoir with it.
Sometimes it opens it when it should be shut, resulting in jerky power delivery. P1297 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 17608 - Boost Pressure Control Valve N249 : Mechanical Malfunction P1200 - 35-00 - - 17545 - Fuel Trim: Bank 1 Add : System too Rich P1137 - 35-00 - - Split-R valves tend to leak boost, from quite a few reports I've read. However my N249 delete doesn't look like those photo's I took when I first did it - I've now bypassed all the existing metal pipework as well. This oil comes via the engine's crankcase ventilation system. Once the car warms up about 10 to 20 minutes after driving it gives the regular whoosh sound.
I could plug these hard wires into the stock N249 plug, and secured them with masking tape well. Thanks~ January 3, 2015 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Shouldn't have to clean it. Can anyone shed some light on where the N249 is? I suggest you to scan your codes to see why does it enter limp mode. Guess it'll save crap from going up there if you ever decide to reconnect the N249. Failure to do so will result in your account being locked out! It's boosting to about a maximum of 1. Please help, cause this is causing quite a heated discussion between a mate and me. I did plug hoses 1 and 2 as Jules has suggested, but i'm not actually sure if that's definitely neccessary.
Firstly you will see a black plastic corrigated hose that is bolted to the front of this plate, it is held on by two 10mm nuts which you need to remove. N112 works only and exclusively at cold starts when engine is really cold, lets say starting up for the very first time a day. Please explain, if possible using the picture, what do I have to do, witch hoses do I have to move. Did anyone actually read the link I posted above? Shown in the pictures below. As for the 17705 fault, I believe this can be caused by a number of things.
This will result in no boost at all until the N112 and head for the airpump is opened. May 16, 2015 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Let us know what you find. The N112 also used the vacuum store that you have junked, I have done the mod removing the N249 but still use the vacuum for the N112. Just a couple of points for my own understanding. The plate is also clipped in to the dipstick guide so be carefull not to snap that. Mine was impossible to get off so in the end i just cut it off with a stanley knife, but you could try tugging at it with pliers. Oh yeah, as with anything else, no responsibilities taken! This is what the black vacuum reservior on top of the engine is used for.
Practically you have now completed the task! So the real point of having the N249 is that it allows the control system to react quicker to protect the engine from overboosting the turbo in a 'tip in' or wide open throttle condition?? But being that I'm not very technical, could someone please explain exactly what I should be asking for when I ring them up - Dont want to sound like a complete numptie if possible although sadly thats what i am. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need. This is the only K03 which has two nipples, so the Ibiza is unique in this manner. The pressure relief vent should face away from the boost hose toward the intake. I have shown the location of both of the plugs in the pictures below.
If it does not exist i. I'm carrying a spare coil in the boot, without the reservior i can replace a bad coil any time without that reservoir. I have been looking into the N249 Bypass but just wondering what difference will it make? It's all easy to access once the Y-pipe is off. That is all, if you hook this way up, it will work! The Sec Air Solendoid N112 is secured on this alu plate with 2 bigger zip ties. Interesting, I might just have to give that a go you know Going to get the car booked in for a system pressure test to check for any leaks as you've suggested Chris.
N249 Valve replacement plenty to keep me busy. January 3, 2015 Followup from the Pelican Staff: The diverter could be receiving a faulty vacuum source from the solenoid. Running high boost and lean mixture may have though. Hi everyone, Just had the S3 on Vagcom to turn the engine management light off. Combi valve is kept closed after the warmup! Make sure you take care in removing all of the standard pipework so you dont damage any of the ports on the two valves. As the first step, we have to put the N112 back as this controls the combi valve, which opens the head for the Secondary Air Pump to be able to pump air into the exhaust. I take no responsibility if you copy this guide and something goes wrong! If you're still in limp mode, it is not because of the N112.